Ka Wahi – The Site
Lihikai
Place Name: The name Lihikai literally means “the edge or rim of the ocean”. This is one of the names for this area of coast and probably refers to the edge of the natural rock outcropping which protects the shoreline. Another name, Onekahakaha, also Keonekahakaha, means literally “drawing (as in drawing a picture) sand”. The original meaning of the name is not known.
Description: Lihikai is a group of several shallow pools with sandy bottoms, which are protected from the formidable surf by reinforced rock outcroppings. The natural rock formations were reinforced with new boulders to create a safe swimming area. This part of the coast is characterized by outflows of cold fresh water from underground springs. There are many inlets along the coast, like the ones to the north and south of the site, which have been used as loko ‘ia, or fish ponds.
For a time, this land was also known as Machida Beach when it was leased by the Machida family, who lived there and allowed it to be used for community social gatherings. In the1930’s, the family gave up their lease to allow a public park to be developed.
As the park was developed, the natural breakwater was reinforced with boulders, a wetland area was filled in, and the existing shallow pools were dredged to make them deeper. The ancient fishpond to east was overgrown with weeds and partially filled with sediment, until a local community group, He Ola Hou O Ke Kumu Niu, took on its rehabilitation.
Significance as Part of Ahupua‘a/Watershed
Lihikai is in the ahupua‘a of Waiakea, which extends from Waiakea Stream to the west, Leiliwi Point to the east, and mauka to the border of Ola‘a, high on the slopes of Mauna Loa.
Waiakea means “expansive waters” or “the water of Akea”, father of the Hawaiian people. The water and rains here are also associated with the god Lono.
Lihikai is located in a watershed in the lower part of the ahupua‘a, known as Keaukaha, which means “passing current”. This ahupua‘a actually contains two other watersheds to the west, the Alenaio and the Wailoa.
The Keaukaha watershed is about 2.5 square miles and is considered a dry stream since no permanent surface flows are found there.
Resources in this ahupua‘a included several loko i‘a (fishponds), coral reefs, tide pools, several ko‘a (offshore fishing grounds), and a few fresh water springs and shallow water wells.
A few ancient settlements were located along the coast, where Limu and shellfish were collected from the rocky shore, loko i‘a were managed, and ocean fish, including ‘Uhu, were caught in offshore fishing grounds.
The land near Waikea Stream and Pond was used for extensive agriculture in old Hawai‘i, especially for Kalo (Taro) lo’i. Where running water was not available, Hawaiians living in marshy parts of this ahupua‘a planted Kalo in a special way.
“In lava-strewn South Hilo there were no streams whose valleys or banks were capable of being developed in terraces, but cuttings were stuck into the ground and on the shores and islets for many miles along the course of the Wailuku River far up into the forest zone. In the marshes surrounding Waiakea Bay, east of Hilo, taro was planted in a unique way, known as kanu kipi. Long mounds were built on the marshy bottom with their surface two or three feet above water level. Upon the top and along the sides of these mounds taro was planted. Flood waters which occasionally submerged the entire mound are said to have done no harm, as the flow was imperceptible. This swampy land is now abandoned to rank grass. Kipi (mounds) were also formerly made along Alenaio Stream above Hilo…”
From Native Planters in Old Hawai‘i - Handy, Handy and Pukui
The forested uplands of this ahupua‘a were important sources of timber, including Koa trees used to make canoes. Because of frequent, heavy rains, the uplands of Waiakea were famous for abundant forest plants, used for adornment, medicine and ceremony. These areas were also used by bird catchers to collect feathers used to make lei and clothing for the ali‘i.
Geologic Features
Lihikai is located on Mauna Loa’s largest ‘a’a flow, which is called the Panaewa flow because it also covered the forested Panaewa plain. This flow occurred 1,500 years before the present and actually created the southern end of Hilo Bay from Waiakea Pond to Hā‘ena.
Likikai is close to the southern edge of this flow, which extends to the edge of Kilauea’s lavas at Hā‘ena. Since this is one of Mauna Loa’s newer flows, permanent streambeds have not had enough time to develop, as they have further north, near the edge of the ahupua‘a.
Large amounts of fresh water flows beneath the ground here, fed by rainfall in the uplands, to discharge at the coast, creating brackish conditions.
A Tidepool Ecosystem
Tidepool ecosystems, like those found at Lihikai, are unique and special places. Because the pools offer protection form violent waves and larger predators, they provide a safe haven for many species of marine animals and plants. The pools are fed by colder freshwater springs.
Certain animals, like the brittle star, are only found in such protected places. The calm, sandy bottom is often home to certain marine plants that require this type of environment to thrive.
Wana, or sea urchins, live in the outer pools where they seek shelter from wave action under rocks.
Since the calm waters of tidepools are not cleaned out regularly by the ocean, they are particularly vulnerable to concentrated pollutants from runoff.
Nā Mo‘olelo ‘Āina – Traditions of the Land
Hilo Hanakahi
The area we now think of as Hilo was divided into at least three separate regions in ancient times. The northernmost part, near the Wailuku River was called Hilo Palikū, named for the tall, straight cliff found there. The central part, which fronts Hilo Bay, was called Hilo One, perhaps referring to the sandy beaches there. The southernmost part, where Lihikai is located, was called Hilo Hanakahi, named for a well loved chief, who maintained peace and prosperity.
Mokuola
The small islet called Mokuola, located near the northern boundary of the ahupua‘a is said to have been a traditional pu‘u honua, or place of refuge, where transgressors could be forgiven. Mokuola means “island of life” and it is also associated with healing and longevity. Legend says that if a person swims around the island three times, they will enjoy a long life.
A legendary story about the origin of this island tells that the hero Maui caught the Island of Maui with his hook, and using magical powers, tried to bring it closer to Hawai‘i. He had almost succeeded when his brother looked back and broke the spell. The Island of Maui slipped back to its original position, and only a tiny piece was left on the hook, which is Mokuola. Once there was a heiau located on Mokuola. Stone blocks from this temple were used to build a boat pier at the mouth of the Wailoa River in 1861. This pier was destroyed by the tsunami of 1877.
Mele: ‘Ano‘ai Chant:
‘Ano‘ai ku‘u wehi la
I ka ua Kanilehua
Pua nani ka lehua la
No Hilo Hanakahi
A‘o ku‘u ipo ia la
I ke kai a’o Mokuola
Kui ‘ia me ke ‘ala la
O nā hala a‘o Puna
Ha‘ina ku‘u wehi la
I ka ua Kanilehua
Chant: Greetings to my Lei
Greetings to my love
In the Kanilehua rain
Beautiful is the lehua blossom
Of Hilo Hanakahi.
My sweetheart is
In the sea of Mokuola
Intermingled with the fragrance
Of the hala of Puna
.
Tell of my love
In the Kanilehua rain
Translation by Kaiu Kanoa
Puhi Bay
Lihikai is located on the edge of Puhi Bay, which was named for a large spouting blowhole, which was destroyed in 1966, when an outfall was constructed at a sewage treatment plant in that location.
This bay is also said to be frequented by a kupua honu, or turtle god, which could be seen swimming back and forth along the coast.
Hulali aku ‘o Keonekahakaha (Keonekahakaha’s sands glitter) Kahi huaka‘i hele a nā kūpuna( The place frequented by the ancestors) Ma‘alo mau ‘ia ke kupua honu (Where the turtle demigod always passes by)
From Nā Pana Kaulana o Keaukaha – By Edith Kanaka‘ole
Although the sands in the pools have been replenished since it has become a park, Lihikai has always had a light colored sandy beach. The source of the sand may surprise you. The major sand makers are invertebrates and coral eating fish, like ‘Uhu. The many varieties of ‘Uhu, and other fish that grind hard coral with their beak like mouths and special throat muscles, are responsible for virtually all the light colored sand here.
‘Uhu- Juvenile Bullethead Parotfish - Photo: Courtesy NOAA
Traditional Resource Management:
The coastal area around Lihikai had many loko i‘a and pu‘uone (fish ponds) in the past. Hawaiians took advantage of natural inlets, like the one to the east of the tide pools, to create an enclosed pond. The ocean entrance was often made narrower by building rock walls and closing the opening with a gate, called a mākāhā, which would allow water and small fish to flow through.
The mākāhā also allowed the water in the pond to be refreshed by the tides.
Cold, fresh water from underground springs mixes with sea water in the ponds, creating a favorable environment for the fish kept inside. Most of the fish stocked in the ponds were herbivores, like ‘Ama‘ama, which could survive by eating the plentiful Limu. Some carnivorous fish, like ‘Ulua, were also kept in ponds, which ate the smaller herbivores.
In addition to fish, other marine life harvested from ponds include, ‘Opae (shrimp), Pūpū (mollusks), and several types of Limu
It is believed that most loko i‘a were reserved for the ali‘i, and were carefully managed by appointed pond keepers, who were allowed to take, eat and share certain fish, but the choicest were only for the ali‘i.
Limu – Edible Seaweeds
Likikai and other coastal areas nearby were favorite gathering places for Limu, edible seaweeds. Hawaiians made use of more types of seaweed than any other culture. They were an important source of minerals and vitamins in the traditional Hawaiian diet. They also contributed spicy flavor to food.
Two common types of Limu still found at Lihikai include Limu Kohu and Waiwae‘iole. Another choice variety, Limu ‘Ele‘ele, is now rare in this area. Limu ‘Ele‘ele is found only where cold fresh water springs empty into the sea. This species depends on clean water for survival and has declined due to lower water quality and over harvesting.
Aunty Edith Kanaka‘ole was a well known, and highly respected resident of Keaukaha, who dedicated her life to sustaining Hawaiian culture, especially the arts of chanting and hula. She wrote many mele about her home and her personal experiences, including this famous song
about collecting Limu.
Ka Uluwehi O Ke Kai
He ho‘oheno kē ‘ike aku
Ke kai moana nui lā
Nui ke aloha e hi‘ipoi nei
Me ke ‘ala o ka līpoa
He līpoa i pae i ke one
Ke one hinuhinu lā
Wela i ka lā kē hehi a‘e
Mai mana‘o he pono kēia
Ho‘okohukohu e ka limu kohu
Ke kau i luna ō nā moku la
‘O ia moku ‘ula la e hō
‘Oni ana i ‘ōi ‘ane‘i
Ha‘ina mai ka puana
Ka līpoa me ka limu kohu
Hoapili ‘oe me ka pāhe‘e
‘Anoni me ka līpalu
Plants of the Sea
Such a delight to see
The great big ocean
So familiar and very cherished
With its fragrance of the līpoa
It is līpoa which washed ashore
Onto the shiny white sand
Hot from the heating sun as you step on it
Don’t think that this is fun
How enticing is the display of limu kohu
Atop the rocks
Enticing one to pick them
As they sway to and fro
Let the story be told
Of the līpoa and the limu kohu
Close companions of the pāhe‘e
Intermingled with the līpalu
Protocols
Before entering a certain place, it is traditional to first request admission with a chant which also speaks about the beauty and character of that place.
‘Oli Kahea
Hiki au mai ma‘ō loa aku mai
‘Ālana aloha o ka mea hele
Me ka leo wale no, e e e
E komo aku ho‘i au maloko
Lālahalaha o ka nalu, kupukupu na limu
Wai māpuna wili ia me ke kai
Kipa wale na kōlea i Lihikai
Na Taleni Kalui 7-29-10
Request Admission Chant
I come from a far distance
A traveler offering aloha
With just the voice
Permit me to come in
The swelling of the waves, growth of Limu
Fresh spring water mixes with sea water
By chance a Kōlea visits Lihikai
Issues/Threats
Invasive Species
Because the coastal land around Lihikai is low and has many inlets where sea water fills at high tides, it is susceptible to being invaded by alien Red Mangroves. These non-native trees were first introduced to the Hawaiian Islands in 1902, by sugar planters, who used them to stabilize massive erosion caused by poor farming practices on Moloka‘i and Oahu. The mangroves did hold some soil, but they also replaced native coastal forests and pristine coastlines with vast expanses of anaerobic muck, in which nothing else could grow.
These trees’ leaves shade out sun loving corals, and the muck they produce literally smothers coral colonies, killing off entire coral reefs.
Ta‘ape are fish native to other South Pacific Islands, which were introduced in Hawai‘i in 1958, in response to declining native fish populations. The idea was that the Ta‘ape would multiply and provide fisherman with abundant catches and boost commercial fishing profits. These fish did reproduce rapidly, but unfortunately, they do not taste very good and were never a commercial success.
About 3,000 fish were originally released on O‘ahu. They soon spread to the other islands and now can be found as far away as Midway Atoll. Ta‘ape have displaced many native fish, by competing with them for food 
and habitat, and also eating their young. They also harbor a parasite which may be spreading to native fish. Many older fisherman blame Ta‘ape for the continuing decline of Hawai‘i’s native fish.
The familiar Moluccan Albizia Tree was introduced to Hawai‘i in the early 1900’s in an effort to replant degraded areas of the watersheds where native upland forests had been destroyed by grazing, agriculture or timber. This tree has many characteristics typical of invasive plants, such as rapid reproduction, formation of dense patches where nothing else can live, and alteration of soil chemistry to favor their species.
Moloccan Albizias are one of the nitrogen fixing plants which are able to capture nitrogen from the air and deposit it in the soil. Our native forests evolved with little nitrogen and can actually be harmed with excess amounts. Research has shown that these trees are responsible for large amounts of nitrogen in Hilo area watersheds. Excess nutrients, like nitrogen, can affect water quality near the shore, impacting reefs and fisheries.
Pollution
Several accidental releases of raw sewage into Puhi Bay occurred at a nearby sewage plant, built in the 1960’s. Since that time, stricter regulations and safer technology have reduced the risks of pollution. However, there is an unusual abundance of a certain coral, Knobby Coral (Porites rus), which grows rapidly in the presence of sewage. This coral is considered an indicator species for contamination.
I
n 1995, high levels of bacteria caused the County to close Onekahakaha Beach Park. The cause was found to be leaking sewer pipes near the park. Polluted conditions may be responsible for the decline in the number of species found in the pools.
In recent years, Hawai‘i’s Honu, or Green Sea Turtle, population has been afflicted by a virus which causes tumors and can lead to their death.
This virus, called fibropappilomatosis, or FP, has been linked to areas with water polluted by sewage, however more research needs to be done to reach firm conclusions.
A high percentage of Honu in Puhi Bay were found to have this virus. Often, the tumors can be removed by specially trained veterinarians.
Fibropappiloma tumors on a young honu
Windward Hawai‘i’s booming sugar industry centered around Hilo Bay for nearly a century. Some of the unintended consequences of sugar production still affect the 
bay today. Outflow from the Wainaku Sugar Mill containing arsenic flowed freely into the sea for many years. Today the arsenic levels in Hilo Bay are the highest in the State. It is unknown how high levels of arsenic may affect species living there.
What should be done to monitor how these pollutants affect different areas of the ahupua‘a? How can we tell if the watershed is being polluted by something we never suspected before?
Lihikai Life Zones
Coastal (Littoral) Forest: This land sits on a 1100-1,500 year old lava flow from Mauna Loa. It receives about 125 to 150 inches of rain per year. Once, this coastline supported groves of Hala, Milo and other native coastal trees. A few Hala remain behind the parking lot area, and a stand of Milo survives in the tangle of invasive Red Mangroves. Now the dominant trees here are Ironwoods and Red Mangroves and the planted False Kamani near the picnic tables.
Sandy Bottomed Tide Pool: Although sand has been imported to replenish the pools here at the park, the bottoms of these tidepools have always been naturally sandy. Most of these pools are too shallow to support much coral growth, but many marine creatures that live on, or in sand can be found here. When the park was first established, very fine sand, which contained silt, was used to line the pools. Few animals could live in the cloudy water. Since then, the sand was replaced with more a more granular type, and the amount of marine life has increased. These tidepools also provide habitat for Limu, and many invertebrates.
Coral Reef: A few types of coral live in the deeper parts of the relatively calm outer tidepools. The coral reefs directly off of Lihikai are subjected to very high wave energy. Certain corals adapted to this type of environment live here. Farther away from the surface, the reef is composed of different corals that can’t survive the impact of waves. All of the corals are affected by the quality of the water that runs off from the land here. Pollutants and sediment coming from the land can damage entire reefs.
